Anchor #133

The ocean was windless, where it’s usually a relentless barrage of storms, so windless that it was super challenging for my camera to pick up any wave coming my way. in this I’m floating like a starfish on my stomach in ankle to knee deep water, over a granite slab covered in razor-sharp barnacles, waiting to shred me if I get too close. I had gotten pulled out of position onto the reef and had to prepare to try and get under this wave without getting torn to pieces. I felt in danger, ybut made sure I documented as much as possible before having to turn my attention to evacuating my position. I’ve been caught out of position a lot while shooting and surfing, dragged by the ocean’s currents only to be confronted with a wave about to land on or in front of me. It feels like the ocean has got you, you are stuck, anchored in position by a seemingly invisible force. I love this photograph for its sculptural feel but also it It’s hard to tell properly what size it is. It felt so sculptural and metallic, calm and beautiful, but I was not in a safe position whatsoever. This wave travelled along the slab of rock. I had to dive like a starfish, keeping my eyes open to make sure I could see the reef, and after a split second put myself up in the whitewater foam, something I normally swim under. After this I had unfortunately another wave and was left standing on the reef in utter danger and got completely blown apart. I didn’t shoot that one, Im still unsure how I came out of it without serious injury. I retreated fairly sheepishly to the jetski after this I really should have not ended up in this place to take this photo. It could have gone so much worse.